Friday, October 29, 2010

The Most Amazing Volunteer

at the Cairo Meeting
Cairo, Egypt

As I think back on the events of the Cairo Meeting, there's one man who stands out as the hero of the affair, even moreso because everything he did was as a volunteer, a concept quite new to Egyptian culture.

The Cairo Meeting included volunteers and participants from Egypt, Italy, Belgium, the United States, and surely other countries I don't know about.  Most of the Italians didn't speak Arabic - or, apparently, English - and organizers didn't have high expectations of the Egyptians speaking English, let alone Italian. So a great deal of translation was needed. That was why CASA students like me were brought in, actually, although in the end we didn't translate  much of anything because none of us speak Italian.
VP of the Cairo Meeting Wael Farouq, Pres. Guanieri of the Rimini Meeting, and the amazing interpreter!
But the interpreter above was amazing. In this speech, Pres. Guanieri spoke for a good five minutes under the assumption that her speech was being simultaneously translated, until the translator was found for an impressive feat of consecutive translation on stage. More amazing was the next day, though, when the astrophysicist who was scheduled to give a presentation on the Milky Way in English decided at the last minute to give his presentation in Italian. Suddenly our friend the interpreter was needed on stage to translate about astrophysics and philosophy, with no preparation of the material, study of the vocabulary, or warning about the content of the speeches. And he was flawless. Not only did he translate, but he did so in incredibly elegant fus7a Arabic, the kind no one speaks as a native language, and few contemporary Arabs even master as a language of rhetoric. It was amazing. And he did it as a volunteer, just like the rest of us.
Check out more photos here and here, and on the Rimini Meeting's Flickr feed.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

the upcoming Cairo Meeting

Beauty as a Space for Dialogue

Cairo, Egypt

Have you ever heard of the Rimini Meeting? I hadn't. It's a pretty cool event, though. Every year hundreds of thousands of volunteers and students descend on the Italian city of Rimini for some inter-cultural inter-faith fun. There are famous speakers like the Dalai Llama, Mother Theresa, Pope John Paul II, and Cardinal Ratzinger before he was Pope Benedict XVI, as well as politicians, intellectuals, humanitarians, artists and others. They also stage sporting events, concerts and art exhibitions.

So, our teacher Wael attended the Rimini Meeting while he was studying abroad in Italy. This year, he's decided to stage his own version of the same, and he's asked for volunteers from the CASA program to assist at his Cairo Meeting. It will be smaller, naturally, this being the first Cairo Meeting, but even still Wael is expecting the biggest gathering to ever take place in Cairo without the presence of Suzanne or Pres. Husni Mubarak … or Pres. Obama. Just at the preliminary volunteer orientation alone we had over 200 people. There will be a concert, speakers, an art exhibition, and opportunities for journalistic exchange.

The meeting is next weekend, and I've volunteered as one of the interpreters for the meetings between Italian and Egyptian journalists. In the meantime, we've been asked to do the translation of several articles to be published among the conference papers, with our bylines as translators. Rachel and I are working on Wael's editorial on the struggle of Arab intellectuals to balance Islam and modernity, and it's not easy! Give me newspaper articles to translate any day … straightforward and plainly written, even if perhaps not as deep.

Stay tuned for dispatches from the conference itself next weekend!

Myth of the Good Samaritan

Cairo, Egypt

When I came home from our lovely potluck last night, I found all my roommates, the neighbor and his friend standing on the landing between our two apartments.  The neighboring apartment had been robbed the week before, and the locks on the door replaced.  When our neighbor came home last night, he was unable to open the door.  By the time I got home, he had already broken the window in his front door in an attempt to get it open from the inside, but to no avail.  We stood around discussing the idea for a few minutes.  "I could call the landlord," says the neighbor, "but I don't speak Arabic."
"Maryah speaks Arabic!" volunteered one of my roommates.
"I'll speak to him," I volunteered myself. It was a quick conversation, and it didn't take long for the landlord to arrive.

In the midst of his attempts to open the apartment, the landlord pulled me aside and, in rapidfire Arabic, he insisted that he had no idea who this guy was who claimed to live in the apartment, he'd never seen him nor a copy of his passport before, he had no idea if he actually lived there. Also, where were his roommates? They had said they were leaving at the end of the month, and they left last week? That's unacceptable! He said all this as if it were my responsibility, and when I protested that it was not my apartment, he shrugged it off. Didn't I understand this was unacceptable?

Ultimately, the landlord was also unable to open the apartment, and he insisted that no locksmith could be found before 10am the next morning, at which time everyone but me was going to be at work or in class. I agreed to take the key to the neighboring apartment and meet the locksmith the next day. After the landlord left, we offered the guy next door a spot on our couch for the night.

The next day, the landlord and the locksmith showed up at the agreed to time, got the door open and replaced the locks again.  Then the landlord beckoned me into the other apartment, ostensibly to check out the Internet which we share with the other apartment. "Look at this!" he exclaimed. "This place hasn't been cleaned in months! And they haven't paid their electricity bills for several months. And this is broken, and that's broken. And did they have a cat in here? Look at the mess they've made!" I kept reminding him that this wasn't my apartment, but he wasn't listening.  Finally, I threw up my own hands and exclaimed, "I don't want to be part of this! My only part in this was as translator. I don't want to know the details, I don't want to hear the problems, I just want my Internet back and to be finished with the whole affair!" I think he finally got the point.

Morals of the Story
First: Don't shoot the translator! I was just trying to be a good Samaritan, but as they say, no good deed goes unpunished!
Second: Honor your responsibilities! If you are old enough to pack up your life and take a job in a foreign country all by yourself, then you are old enough to bear responsibility for your life there. Pay your electric bills, make sure your landlord knows who's living in his apartment, don't break his furniture, clean occasionally, maintain the Internet connection for which your neighbors are paying half your bill.... If not out of respect for your landlord and your host community, then at least have a little self-respect!

This is my rant of the week. I now return you to your regular programming....

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Potluck Picnic

Cairo, Egypt

We couldn't remember by the time we got there whose idea it had been last week, but it was a good one! If only I'd remembered to bring my camera!
There's a beautiful park on the far side of Islamic Cairo, the least Cairo-like place in the city, with trees and flowers and wide swathes of green grass. Every time I go, I think what a waste of water it is … and then I remember that I'm not in Jordan, and there's the Nile right nearby…. We got there just at sunset prayer, when you can hear the call to prayer coming from dozens of mosques on all sides, and we stayed till after the evening prayer call. Rachel made an amazing frittata, Kristine brought baguettes and cheese, Sara whipped up a very spicy Thai cucumber salad, and true to form, Erin brought dessert. It was delicious, and with a live rababa player, a cool breeze and a crimson moon, it was simply gorgeous. We'll definitely be doing it again, and next time I'll remember my camera!

Friday, October 22, 2010

Sharia and Siyasa

Cairo, Egypt

American University in Cairo inaugurated its new Law School yesterday, in conjunction with the History Department, with a fascinating lecture by the Chair of the History Department Dr. Khalid Fahmy on sharia and siyasa in Egypt’s legal history. His research in the Cairo archives is revealing a very different picture of sharia and Islamic law than is commonly espoused by both Orientalists and Islamists.  I would definitely recommend looking up some of his work (I will be!), but here are the highlights:

“Siyasa” in the contemporary context translates as “politics,” but in the 1820s-1870s referred instead to a late Ottoman, pre-colonial secular court system that complemented the religious sharia courts.  The latter are limited in a number of ways.  Sharia courts can only bring a verdict if the next-of-kin demand it, and must drop a case if the next-of-kin do not wish to pursue their right to retribution. In the case that any of the next-of-kin are under the age of majority, the case cannot be dismissed until all relatives have reached the age of majority. Furthermore, convictions can only be handed down if the accused confesses, or if a minimum number of reliable eyewitnesses can be established. In essence, the sharia courts only adjudicate verbal cases between families, not between the individual and his government. In short, sharia curtails the cycle of revenge and retribution that was tearing Arab society apart at the time of the Prophet Mohammad.

In contrast, “siyasa” in the Ottoman sense is that system of courts and rulings that regulates offenses against government.  Traditionally, this involved cases of bribery, embezzlement and misuse of power.  In the 1820s-1870s in Egypt, however, it also came to oversee and supplement the sharia court system. After a ruling had been made by the Islamic sharia court, it would come to this secular siyasa court or council.  This council included muftis who reviewed the sharia court’s rulings and assured that its judges really understood their responsibilities under sharia law. Whether the sharia court had rightfully dismissed the case or ruled in favor of the plaintiff, the siyasa court then had the authority to re-examine the case using, not spoken evidence, but physical evidence, including forensic science. Generally, the siyasa court then issued an additional punishment on top of the sharia court’s punishment, intended “as a warning to others,” i.e. to enforce the power of the state.

All of this is fascinating, but what’s particularly salient is the light it sheds on the current claims about sharia law, both by the Islamists who advocate a return to pure sharia, and by the Orientalists who reject sharia as barbaric and backwards. Strict Salafi Islamists have been calling for decades for a legal system based entirely and solely on sharia, rejecting the extant secular court systems in Muslim countries as unduly influenced by the West and as un-Islamic. Many Orientalists reject the sharia courts as having outlived their usefulness, relegating them to personal status law (marriage, divorce, inheritance), and labeling them an affront to liberal Western ideas of secular justice. Moderates find themselves in an identity crisis, a clash of civilizations, between the Islamist and Orientalist critiquesof a dual religious/secular court system. However, 19th century accounts about the dual sharia and siyasa justice systems give no indication of an identity crisis or a clash of civilizations. In fact, new research is revealing that all Islamic states since the Ummayad Caliphate in the 7th Century have used an additional, complementary legal system to strengthen sharia, not weaken it. In this regard, both Islamists’ and Orientalists’ understanding of sharia law is inaccurate.

A Linguistic Sidenote
As I listened to this lecture, I was reminded of something our professor Wael said in class this week about the origins of the word “sharia [shari3a].” Though we now understand sharia to be a system of Islamic law, in fact it is derived from the same root as shara3a [road]. Before Islam, the word meant “a path leading to water,” i.e. the path to survival in the desert. In Islamic terms, it means the path toward righteousness, towards heaven, towards right relationships with your fellow man and God. It reminded me of a sermon I heard at my UU church in high school about the word “sin,” which derives originally from the Greek word meaning “to stray from the path,” i.e. from the path towards righteousness and heaven. Thus, in Islamic terms, to sin is to stray from sharia, and to accept punishment from a sharia court is to return one’s soul to the path towards righteousness. Wael will be teaching a course in the spring about how pre-Islamic and early Islamic Bedouin culture influenced the Arabic language, shaped the Arab worldview, and can get in the way of non-Bedouins, both Westerners and settled/urban Arabs, seeking to understand the Arabic language.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Desperation

Cairo, Egypt

We could hardly believe it when we heard it. It's not a pretty story.

Almost every week's topic in CASA is related to economics and development in Egypt. Like the rest of the Arab world, more than half the population is under 30, and unemployment is over 40%. Even graduates of Masters programs can hardly find work. This we knew. Though Egypt is a country with some oil reserves and other mineral wealth, it is not enough to bring to Egyptians the kinds of wealth that Saudi Arabia, the Gulf countries and Libya can give to their people. And though Egypt gets a lot of foreign aid from the United States and elsewhere, the sheer number of people means that aid is worth pennies per capita, as opposed to dozens of dollars per capita for a country like Jordan.

What shocked us was a bit of information dropped by our Listening professor. Recently, he said, he read about a man from the vast impoverished class of Egypt who, not having enough money to feed his family till the end of the month, instead spent that money on poison. He served it up in dinner, and killed himself and his whole family. Our professor assured us that there were many reported stories like this every year ... and that's just the reported ones!

I found myself trying to put myself in that position. What kind of pressure would have to be on a man to do such a thing? What kind of self-loathing and regret about his own life choices would have to be brewing inside him? What kind of despair for the future would be required to do that to his children? There are depths of poverty, hopelessness and despair in this country that I will never quite be able to comprehend.

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Happy Birthday, ya 7elween!

Cairo, Egypt

It was belated for both of them, but we claim CASA homework exhaustion in our defense! Tonight we celebrated the birthdays of CASA I's Duke alumi, Cosette and Andrew, who both had birthdays this week. For the occasion, we headed out to Cairo's best Lebanese restaurant, Tabouleh. It was a bit of a splurge, as it's a rather upscale place, but so worth it! I have to say, though, it made me quite homesick for Jordan, particularly for Jafra in downtown Amman, where you can get the same delicious food for a fifth of the price....
 It was also really great to get together with the potluck crew, as we do most every weekend, but also have an excuse to get a little dressed up! And now, without further ado, I present to you the birthday kids, pimped out in their gifts from the two-and-a-half-guinea store, which is just like a dollar store ... but only 50 cents!:

Monday, October 11, 2010

Because My Brother Is Just That Cool

My uncle took this picture yesterday with his new camera. That's the back of my brother's head, on the national news, and on such an auspicious date, too! (Which, incidentally, is 42 in binary, aka "the answer to life, the universe and everything"!) Uncle Dave recorded it on his DVR, but I can't find the video on the Internet (yet!).

In one of life's great ironies, my brother dropped out of art school to pursue a career in rock climbing, which got him this job at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, working on Big Bambu. It's an unusual concept, so it's best if I just let you read the artists' description on their Website, and leave you with a couple pictures from my parents' visit to the exhibition over the summer:


Saturday, October 9, 2010

Country Living as Spectator Sport

Siwa Oasis, Western Desert, Egypt
From Siwa Oasis
It's weird to think about being homesick for the Peace Corps. Maybe it's because Rachel quizzed me about my Peace Corps experience on the bus to Siwa. Maybe it's because the last time I was anywhere near this stressed was in Peace Corps. Maybe it's the PCV friends I miss. Whatever the reason, all weekend I was imagining what it would be like to be a Peace Corps Volunteer in Siwa Oasis. My head was spinning with community integration and secondary project ideas. I itched to find out what the locals think of the tourist industry, of the local development projects. I wanted to sit down with local women out of their distinctive garb and learn more about their lives and their thoughts. I wanted to pick and dry dates, and sit down afterward for a family meal. Perhaps more than anything, I wanted to be back out in the country, away from the noise, crowds and pollution of Cairo!
From Siwa Oasis
Siwa is nothing like Cairo. Not at all. I don't just mean how quiet and green it is, or how clean the air, or how dirty streets means sandy with road apples, but far less littered with manmade trash.
From Siwa Oasis
What I'm talking about is the people. Cairo has made me defensive, suspicious and mistrustful of people. I live my life on the offensive against harassment, claustrophobia, scams and being cheated. I avoid speaking to strangers, because I expect them to either be creepy or take advantage of the "rich foreigner" or the "loose white girl."
From Siwa Oasis
The people of Siwa, though, remind me of the Jordanians I so love. Gretchen met a man on the bus to Siwa who offered to get us a reliable guide while we were in town. I expected, and I wasn't the only one, that he was going to rope us into giving our number to a lecherous local man who would bilk us of all our guineas. Instead, he introduced us to Yusef. We paid him, but not outrageously, and in return he helped us have a really great time. He's studying his Masters in history in Alexandria, with the intention of helping to preserve the local culture of Siwa against the onslaught of tourism and development. He took us bathing and to a sunset in the desert, and then to a great party with Bedouin music and dancing on the desert's edge. And he wasn't the only Siwan to help us out with great honesty and respect. It was such a refreshing change, even more than the vistas and clean air.
From Siwa Oasis

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Aida in Situ!

Giza, Egypt
From Aida @ the Pyramids
It's the story of an Ethiopian princess, enslaved by the ancient Egyptians, who falls in love with the Pharaoh's top general, even as he is leading campaigns against her father's kingdom upriver. What better place to see it than in front of the Sphinx and the Great Pyramids at Giza? It was really spectacular, using as part of the setting the same infrastructure that lights up the pyramids and the sphinx for the Sound and Light Show. Not to mention elaborate, glittering costumes, dramatic sets, ballet, the symphony orchestra and, of course, some impressive singing. I'm no expert; I can't evaluate the quality of the music or the singing. I can say, however, that I really enjoyed it, and I will definitely be back at the Pyramids Stage for further performances!
From Aida @ the Pyramids

Sunday, October 3, 2010

The Development Curve

Giza Governorate & Cairo, Egypt
From The Development Curve
I feel constantly like Egypt is a very conflicted country, caught between progress and tradition to an extent that I never felt in Jordan. When you look at the carvings on the walls of ancient mastabas, it is no exaggeration to say that the peasant class along the Nile has lived in much the same way for over 5,000 years. They still farm with donkey-drawn plows, hoes and scythes. They still fish from rowboats with nets.
From The Development Curve
At the same time, the city of Cairo has some amazingly modern infrastructure. The Internet connections in both my apartments, and the wireless in cafes and restaurants all over downtown, is faster and more reliable than you can get almost anywhere in Jordan. You can order delivery from almost any restaurant in town that delivers over the Internet. The technology available at the American University for our daily use is state-of-the-art. I would say the same for the newsroom of Al-Yowm As-Saaba3 we visited last Sunday. The number one Website in Egyptian cyberspace, at this newspaper every reporter had his or her own laptop, all wired into the network to keep submissions running smoothly and the Website updating every 5 minutes.
From The Development Curve
And yet among the latest model cars, you still see donkey- and horsecarts around the city. Some are bringing produce in from the countryside. Others are dragging the city's trash out to Garbage City, where it will be sorted, shredded and recycled by hand. When I went out to Giza to "hear" (from a friend's roof some distance from the actual concert) Andre Boccelli at the Pyramids, we rode in an ancient VW van from the quite modern Metro out to the very modern Sound and Light Show at the Sphinx.

This, I know, is the state of most of the developing world: great modernity mostly in the places where you're likely to find the foreigners who are accustomed to such things, while the local farmers and herders out in the sticks are still using the old methods, too poor to afford better without assistance their governments can't really give them. This is where microloans are so helpful, and mobile phone networks for farmers to contact providers and customers, and solar panels where electric infrastructure doesn't reach, and thousands of other innovative projects in development all around the world.

In the meantime, the contrasts are stunning.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Ancient Saqqara and Memphis

Giza Governorate, Egypt

Saturday trips with American University's Arabic Language Institute resumed with the new semester, and today we toured the ancient sites at Saqqara and Memphis.  These sites became important around 3200 BC when the kingdoms of Upper and Lower Egypt were united under one pharaoh, who made his capital at Memphis. Saqqara, named for Sukaris, God of the Underworld, was the necropolis or funerary complex associated with Memphis, and the site of the earliest pyramids. Up until that time, kings had been buried in mastabas, which later became associated with lesser figures in the pharaoh's court. We began our tour at the mastaba of the courtier Titi.
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis
You can't take pictures inside tombs and pyramids in Egypt, so you'll just have to take my word for it when I say that the reliefs inscribed all over the walls of Titi's mastaba are amazing. Every imaginable aspect of daily life is represented, from hunting, farming, butchering and animal husbandry to craftsmen, boatbuilding and threshing.
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis
Then we went inside the pyramid of King Titi, the first pyramid to have funerary inscriptions. It doesn't look like much on the outside, but it's pretty neat down inside, even if it's a little cramped down in there!
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis
The Step Pyramid of Djoser, on the other hand, is impressive on the outside, though the inside has been closed for over 40 years, as it's not stable. It's under reconstruction at the moment, but still very cool. It started out as a mastaba, but then the pharoah decided to build another, smaller mastaba on top of it, and another on top of that, and another....
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis
The pyramid's actually part of a much larger funerary complex, much more intact than the far newer Pyramids at Giza. All the details, as usual, are on my Web Album.
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis
Then we went to the statuary garden at Memphis. Throughout the pharaonic dynasties and into the Roman Era, Memphis remained a vital center of life along the Nile, and was a city of about 30km across. It was the capital of the Old and Middle Kingdoms, remained important after the capital moved to Luxor in the New Kingdom, and was where Alexander the Great went first, to be crowned emperor of Egypt. However, very little of it has been excavated, as the whole area is now covered with small farming villages vital to the economy and diet of Egypt.
From Ancient Saqqara and Memphis

Friday, October 1, 2010

Turnover, All Over Again

Cairo, Egypt

One of the downsides - and upsides! - of my itinerant lifestyle is the people who waltz in and out of that life at regular intervals. You get to know all kinds of interesting people that way ... but they tend not to stick around for very long. But that's the trade-off you get for the expat life.

Today I say "see ya!" to Sylvia, who's moving down the street, and "au revoir!" to Pip, who is off to Europe for three weeks before coming back to Cairo for a final 2 months at her NGO. They've been great roommates, a fabulous rebound from my first Cairo roommate. I'm going to miss them.

At the same time, I'm saying "Willkommen" to Amir, and "Bienvenue" to Sana'a. He's German, doing an internship with an NGO in Cairo. She's French, with Moroccan parents, studying abroad in Cairo for the year. Now I, too, am gonna have my mini-UN!