Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Chopin at the Pyramids

Giza, Egypt

Polish embassies around the world are celebrating 200 years of the composer Chopin. In Egypt, they brought some fantastic musicians and dancers to the Pyramids. They started with classical arrangements of Chopin as he himself would have imagined them.

Then there was an amazing jazz pianist, Leszek Możdżer, playing his "Chopin Impressions." He did some really unusual, fantastic things playing with the inside of the grand piano as he played. He dampened some strings with what looked like a big towel. He attached bells to others, and more.

Finally, a group called Rock Loves Chopin performed rock interpretations of Chopin, accompanied by a modern dance troupe. I really enjoyed the latter, but the friends I went with thought it was awful, and walked out, so I had to follow if I wanted a ride home....

Friday, September 24, 2010

Making Tradition

Cairo, Egypt

For the second Friday night in a row, a group of my CASA buddies have hosted a potluck dinner, which I hope is becoming a regular tradition.

Sara cooked Moroccan Tagine, a thick vegetable stew she served us over couscous. We had another fabulous fattoush a la Emma (i.e. in a bag!), a Lebanese salad topped with fried bread. Erin made some Moroccan fried bread I can't remember the name of. Cosette made some delicious potatoes. Rachel made a great yogurt salad. Kristine brought us some premium chocolate ice cream, and I brought cookies.

It was a feast for the stomach and the soul!

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Of Mosques and Tea Parties

Cairo, Egypt

It seems America is always doing something to make me squirm whenever I'm abroad. In Switzerland, it was Columbine and Monica Lewinsky. In Germany, it was that spy plane over China. In England, it was the talk about invading Iraq. In Jordan, it was Abu Ghraib Prison and the re-election of George W. Bush (among other things). When I came back to Jordan, it was failing to speak up against the Gaza War. I know my country isn't trying to embarrass me on purpose, and I guess it's hard to avoid when you're the only superpower of your age.

All this week in class, we've been talking about the Cordoba Center, the so-called "Ground Zero mosque" that's not a mosque and not really all that close to Ground Zero, either, according to my friends who live in New York City. Not just the Cordoba Center, but also the locally controversial mosques in Murfreesboro, TN; Temecula, CA; Sheboygan, WI; and others. Not to mention that crazy minister in Gainesburg, FL, who organized a Qur'an-burning party. We're not only speaking about it in class, but it's been a hot topic among my friends on Facebook, too, whether in Egypt, Jordan or the United States, whether Muslim, Christian, Jewish or otherwise.

I just want to put my opinion out there, one that may be influenced by my background as a child of Mayflower families, and a student in William Penn's colony.

The United States is a nation settled, founded and populated on principles of freedom, including the freedoms of religion and assembly enshrined in our very founding documents. I would venture to guess that more than half of Americans are descended from immigrants who came to the Americas seeking religious freedoms: Puritans, Quakers, Catholics, Lutherans, Amish, Mennonites, Jews, Tibetan Buddhists, Uygher Muslims, Shi'ites, Sufis, Zoroastrians, Sikhs, agnostics, atheists, humanists.... They have all faced discrimination in America, too, but one by one they become accepted and eventually pass into complete anonymity. "They hate us for our freedoms," said Jon Stewart on the Daily Show (referring to the terrorists, of course), "so is this any time to be exercising those freedoms?" If not now, then when?

But I would also like to point out, especially to my Muslim friends in the Arab world, the bright side of this controversy. For every protest against the building or expansion of a mosque in America, there has usually been a significantly larger counter-protest. Gainesburg's proposed Qur'an burning party is not the norm for that multicultural, welcoming city. Moreover, pro-mosque rallies tend to be led by priests, ministers, rabbis, and other religious and secular leaders who are not Muslim, but who understand the lesson of the German pastor Martin Niemoller:
"When they came for the Jews, I did nothing, for I am not a Jew. When they came for the Socialists, I did nothing, for I am not a Socialist. When they came for the labor leaders, the homosexuals, the gypsies, I did nothing, for I am none of these, and when they came for me, I was alone, there was no one to stand up for me."
I can't tell you how many times I've heard Muslims say, "America is the best place in the world to be a Muslim," whether because of the freedom to practice whatever their personal interpretation of the religion, or because living in an open, pluralistic society like the United States forces you to examine and more deeply understand your religious beliefs. Feisal Abdul Rauf, one of the Cordoba Center's organizers, wrote a wonderful book titled What's Right With Islam Is What's Right With America, arguing that America's values and religious freedoms are exactly why it's such a great place to be a Muslim, and the American government sends him around the Muslim world to tell people and governments how important freedom of religion is for Islam's future.

I want to see America reach the full potential to which her founders aspired. After all, the first nation to recognize the United States as an independent, sovereign nation was a Muslim nation, Morocco.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

PhD Got You Down? Try CASA!

Cairo, Egypt

Quote of the Day

I feel for you...this PhD seems like such a joke compared to the CASA workload...here I actually get to sleep!
- Ilaria Giglioli

I was complaining on Facebook today about the impossible volume of homework we get every night here in CASA, and my friend Ilaria from the CASA summer semester offered her sympathies. And it did make me feel much better: like I'm not such a wuss to be overwhelmed, and like feeling like a CASA failure needn't preclude the possibility of doing a doctoral program in the future.

'Failure?' you're thinking. 'Surely you exaggerate!' In the most technical sense, it's true. I can only think of two or three days when I finished all the homework assigned for the day ... and in all those instances, I had only managed to finish because I forgot several of the assigned tasks!

On the other hand, when I work 6 to 10 hours per day on homework and still don't finish it all, that's hardly a failure! It's merely a decision I've made that getting to sleep at midnight is more important than finishing all my assignments. What good does my homework do me if I'm too tired to discuss it in class the next day? Or too run-down and stressed to enjoy a drink with friends on a Thursday night?

I guess I'm still trying to find my balance between getting the work done and maintaining my sanity!

On the other hand, I'm coming to understand more and more just what an amazing opportunity this is. Whether it's other expats I meet here in Cairo, or friends of friends I'm being put in touch with over Facebook, it seems that anyone interested in the Middle East knows about CASA, and is in awe of its Fellows. It's odd to find someone who studies Arabic or lives here and doesn't know about CASA ... and even odder to say to people, "It's supposed to be one of the best Arabic language programs anywhere." I feel like I'm bragging, particularly since I don't feel like I'm a very good representative of the program, but it's the truth! And I try to remind myself of that instead of berating myself for the homework I don't have time to finish!

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Black Desert, White Desert, Desert Fox

Bahriya Oasis, Giza Governorate, Egypt

Andrew and Cosette said, "Do you want to go to the desert?" and I needed no further clarification. I said yes. I needed to get out of the city, away from the noise and the smog and the hassle. And this trip delivered.

I thought we were going upriver (i.e. South), because I knew absolutely nothing about our destination except that it was not the city. In fact, we went almost due West. After a long bus ride, we jumped into a couple of 4X4s and headed out into the desert.
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
First we went to the Black Desert, which is black from the basalt of tons of ancient volcanoes, covered in a dusting of sand.
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
Then we went to Crystal Mountain, in a part of the desert which rests primarily on quartz and other crystal formations.
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
Most spectacularly of all, we went to the White Desert, which Sarah's mother says is probably that way because of gypsum. Most of the rocks felt like chalk ... and came off on your hands like chalk, too!
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
We made camp in the desert just in time for a beautiful sunset. After dinner, we shared a delicious dinner with some desert foxes!
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
Then we went to sleep under a million beautiful stars. There's nothing quite like sleeping in the open desert air! The sunrise was also worth getting up for.
From White Desert, Black Desert, Desert Fox
There was more the next day: caves, mineral springs, a fantastic lunch, and a long bus ride back to the hustle and bustle of Cairo. It was a great break, and the perfect way to get back into the mood to study!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Back to the Grindstone!

Cairo, Egypt

Despite having a mountain of homework already on the very first day, I'm glad to be back in class. Seven weeks of summer vacation was too much. I feel like I've forgotten everything I learned in our seven weeks of class! It's good to have something to do, some structure to my days to keep my mind off the daily annoyances of life in one of the world's biggest cities!

All in all, I think the workload might actually be more manageable than it was in the summer. It seems that our teachers have eased off a little bit. With 3 months to complete their syllabi, they don't seem in quite as much of a rush.

Best of all is my colloquial teacher, Marwa. Not only have I been moved up to a higher level that will be more challenging to me, and less drilling of grammar that's quite similar to the Jordanian grammar I know like the back of my hand. I've also now got a teacher who doesn't insist that everyone speaks Egyptian in class. If I do, and plenty of local phonetics and phrases have crept into my colloquial, that's great. But if I want to speak Levantine Arabic, it's not a problem. Marwa merely wants us to understand and be understood.