Thursday, September 24, 2009

selamatku!

York, Pennsylvania, USA

Swine flu is messing with my plans!

I was supposed to go to Washington, DC, today to see my old college buddy Candice, but she's laid up with swine flu at the Naval Hospital. I'll be going down to DC tomorrow to meet up with some Peace Corps buddies, but sans Naureen, who is also laid up with swine flu.

Selamatku! as they say in Arabic. Get well soon!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

My Godson

or,
They Grow Up Too Fast!


West York
Pennsylvania
USA

First there was just Fred, one of dozens of Jennifers of her era, who longed to be unique among the Girl Scouts at Rainbow Connection. Then there was Fred, Melvin and Side-Kick, life of the Lock-In at the old Junior High (at least as I remember them). Then there was Fred, Ned and Ed, which soon became Phredd, Gnedd, Eadd, Ted and Edna, singing silly songs down the Appalachian Trail. Now there's Phredd, Nathan and Aunt Gnedd.

Now we're scattered to the winds, and reunions are few and far between. Nathan is my oldest, best friend Phredd's son, and at 5 years old, he's seen me all of 4 times, including today! I didn't even meet him till the day when he was over a year old and I became his godmother. I make it out to see him once most years, but rarely when his mother needs the support the most.
It was, therefore, a high priority for me to see him on this trip. And to see Phredd, of course. It was, as usual, complicated. Phredd is laid up with severe asthma, living at her father's again, and her car's transmission was being repaired, but eventually we managed to make it work. And she was right when she said I wouldn't even recognize Nathan!
From Back to Penna.
He's the size of an 8-year-old, talks your ear off, runs circles around his poor Aunt Gnedd, and is the spitting image of his Aunt Yum-Yum (and his mother, apparently, but all I remember about her from elementary school is that we couldn't stand each other)! However, with great verbal acuity has come much better control over his emotions, though his problems are still obviously many, and it was great to see how much better things were going than the last time I saw them.
From Back to Penna.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Look Up!

York, Pennsylvania, USA

I was reminded today of the beautiful work of Gregg Doll as we walked around York's Central Market. It wasn't as busy as usual, and my photos are nothing like Gregg's professional job, but I had fun playing with my camera.
From Back to Penna.
I was also reminded of Mrs. Trevaskis and the best advice I've ever heard about appreciating York, Penn. "When you're in York," said Mrs. T, "you have to remember to look up." There's some beautiful architecture in York, but very little of it is at street level!
From Back to Penna.
I was also reminded of my 10th grade chemistry lab partner, Jim Stephenson, and his mother, who painted one of the many lovely murals around York. We didn't see her, but this one tells of the Constitutional Convention that met here after the British conquered Philadelphia during the American Revolution:
From Back to Penna.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Tied the Knot Their Way

Lincoln, New Hampshire, USA

There were so many reasons to be glad to see Dom and Marie get married. To start with, she supported him when he was trying to open a business with a friend, and in my family, we love entrepreneurs (since both my parents are). And they are both such nice people to spend time with. At the cookout his brothers-in-law hosted after the rehearsal dinner, Dom took time to sit and talk with everyone who came, and in such a way that it felt totally natural, not at all hurried. So I'm delighted to say that they had a beautiful wedding, starting with a stunning location at Indian Head in Lincoln, New Hampshire:
From Dom's Wedding
And I just adore this image of my cousin Dom, watching his bride come down the aisle:
From Dom's Wedding
Dom's Aunt Mary, aka "the JP" (Justice of the Peace), presided over the ceremony, which was brief and to the point, but poignant.
From Dom's Wedding
As part of their ceremony, they assembled a time capsule, which contained pictures of the two of them at their happiness, and love letters detailing why they had chosen to marry each other, to help them through inevitable rough patches in their relationship.
From Dom's Wedding
It was a beautiful, personal wedding, and a fun reception.
From Dom's Wedding

Thursday, September 17, 2009

We Should Really Go Barhopping!

Portland, Maine, USA

This was my brother Ben's big request. Apparently, Portland has the best barhopping scene in the country, with the most bars in a single square mile, so he thought it would be good if Lil and I came down to Portland, went barhopping, and crashed on his (formerly my) futon. So this afternoon, we gathered up our pillows and quilts, and made our way down to Portland.

I had called along the way to say that, while I don't like beer, I was rather in the mood for some cider, if he knew where it could be had, so we started at a brewery where Ben knew there was cider on hand. While we drank, he picked my brain about how he might write a grant proposal that would pay for his Model UN team to go to the international Model UN in Taiwan in the spring.

Then Lil said, if we were bar-hopping, we'd better have our second round at a second bar. Ben knew of another brewery, and we were off.

But when it came time for a third round, Ben confessed that he only knew 2 bars in Portland, plus Sebago's where we'd had dinner on my first night back, but it was more a restaurant than a bar. So we went wandering through town, but I guess we're getting too old for bar-hopping. Several of them were so loud, we couldn't have heard ourselves think, let alone talk! One was offering 50 cent PBR, and another offering 50 cent Long Islands. Eventually we decided that Portland's bar scene was too frat-boy for us, and went to Sebago's anyway, where we had more drinks with munchies.
From Maine 2009
And in fact, though some might think us sad and boring with our 3-bar tour, we had a great evening!

The Great Peach Debate

Bridgton, Maine, USA

"She brought how many pounds of peaches?"

How many is too many? My cousin's husband Christian is well known to love Pennsylvania peaches. I know, Georgia is supposed to be the Peach State, but Pennsylvania peaches are so much better than New England and German peaches that he fell in love. When my family still lived in southern York County, Pennsylvania, he and my cousin Gwen would time their visits for peach season. When we came up to Maine in August, he would always request peaches, and Mum would bring them in her special peach box, labeled Pat's Peach Box in thick black Sharpie, and originally obtained housing a shipment of genuine Florida oranges. When my parents moved to Maine, Christian was devastated. No more Pennsylvania peaches! So when Christian got a job in York, Pennsylvania, there was nothing for it but to send Pat's Peach Box back to Pennsylvania with Christian and Gwen.

So when Auntie Viv flew down to Maryland to pick up Mom's car that my sister had borrowed, and went to visit her daughter and grandson in York, they of course went peach picking! And, as Gwen put it, they just kept picking ... and picking ... and picking ... and picking ... until they had 138 pounds of peaches! And since Auntie Viv had only her small amount of luggage to bring back to Maine, she filled up the rest of the car with peaches.

And of course, when Auntie Viv called to say she had a hundred pounds of peaches, my mother said, "Well, you can't possibly eat them all before they go bad. They'll have to be canned!" And a couple days later, there was Auntie Viv on the phone again: "I'm coming on Thursday to can peaches!" Suffice it to say, it was a great drama, but in the end we canned maybe a quarter of Auntie Viv's peaches today. Here's Christian hard at work:
From Maine 2009
As for me? I babysat!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Meeting Seamus

Bridgton, Maine, USA
From Maine 2009
You're not supposed to have favorites among your relatives, but it wouldn't be hard to guess that Gwen is one of mine. To begin with, she's the inspiration for my globe-trotting lifestyle. When I started hearing about her trips to Ireland, Mexico, Russia and Ireland again, I knew I wanted to have that, too! She helped her mother-in-law save me when I was almost homeless in Europe. I've been her translator and teacher in Germany, and a witness in her beautiful wedding in Dresden. I counseled her through her engagement, and learned in the process just how badly and indelibly a divorce can scar the children. We've had long conversations about raising bilingual children, and worked together to derive many lessons from the way our parents raised us.

So when I left America last June in the middle of her pregnancy, it was with great regret that I probably wouldn't be back in the States when the baby was born. When I couldn't make it home last Christmas, one of my greatest regrets was not being able to meet her baby Seamus.
From Maine 2009
And yet, perhaps, I met Seamus today at the most auspicious time, just when he's beginning to look like his father, act like his mother, and have a personality of his own.
From Maine 2009
Of course, meeting our whole family all at once, and in an unfamiliar place, was overwhelming at the least. And of course, Seamus fussed a good deal, which embarrassed Gwen, despite my mother's best efforts to reassure her that, after 4 children of her own, she expected no less. Still, it's undeniable that he's an adorable little munchkin!
From Maine 2009

Gone Digital!

Bridgton, Maine, USA

One of the things on my To-Do list was to finally get my film from Budapest developed. I'd been dragging my feet about it because the only decent film developer I know in Amman is all the way over on University Street, a place I rarely have occasion to go. I'd been developing my film closer to home, but was not pleased with the quality. So on the way back from the spa yesterday, we stopped off at Rite Aid to get my film developed.

I waited and waited at the photo counter, rang the bell repeatedly, and no one came, so eventually I went over to the cashiers. The older of the two saw me coming with two film canisters in my hand, and said, "Oh, we don't do those here anymore. You'll have to send them away."
"How long will that take?"
"Oh, about a week."
"How reliable is it? Because I'm leaving in a week...."
"Oh, well, then," she said, lowering her voice, "you probably don't want to do that. They're very unreliable!" Then she turned to the younger cashier. "They don't still do film processing at Hannaford's, do they?"
"No," said the girl. "They're not doing it at Wal-Mart in Windham anymore, either. The policy is these days, when the machine breaks, you don't bother to have it repaired." Between them, they couldn't think of a single place within a good 50 miles that did one-hour developing.

When I went out to the car and reported this to Mom, she said, "You know, you're not going to be home for Christmas, so we could just buy your Christmas present for you now...."

So today, Dad and I went down to the camera store in Portland, which still develops real old-fashioned film, and got a sweet new digital camera: a FinePix S1500 from Fujifilm, if anyone cares for the details. It was on sale, so a lot more camera than I expected for my money. Most importantly, in the bright sunlight of the Middle East, I wanted a viewfinder, and I got one!

You can, therefore, expect to see a lot more of my own photos on Picasa!
From Maine 2009

Friday, September 11, 2009

Nerd Night

Portland, Maine

When we called Ben and told him we were going down to pick up Elizabeth at the Portland International Airport, he said, in a small voice, "Are you going to stop and see me on your way home?" And the poor extrovert sounded so lonely in his little loft apartment that we decided to visit.

We all agreed, after long conversations about politics, climate change policy, and Soviet city planning, that we just don't know many other people who would enjoy sitting for hours talking about this stuff. It's so nice to spend time with my family.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Where It's Green and Moist

Portland, Maine, USA

The worst part of traveling alone is not being able to nap on an 8-hour layover. I watched a few hours of Rome (thank you, Lowen, it is very good!), had a cup of coffee, and still had hours to go. Fortunately, luggage carts are free in airports everywhere but America, and I could put my bags on a cart and walk. And that's what I did. From one end of the terminal to the other. For hours.

Other than that, it was a beautiful trip!

And when I got through immigration and customs in Boston, there were Mom and Dad, waiting to deliver me to Maine! It's so nice to be home, were it's green, and a little humid, and it's just ... home! And then we went out to dinner at Sebago's Brewery in Portland (yum!) with Ben, and it was so great to sit around and talk about sailing and family and crazy things Republicans do....

I also got to see Ben's new studio apartment when we went to hang curtains there, and, oh, I am so glad to be home!

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Jordan's Blogosphere

Amman, Jordan

I don't know if I count as part of the Jordanian blogosphere, or if Emily does, but we're definitely participating in the same community as Nas, Kinzi, Jad and many others who are legitimate permanent residents of both Jordan and the Jordanian blogosphere. But I'm interested nonetheless in supporting the latest move at the Black Iris:

Consider it an experiment in Jordanian social media. People are constantly asking me whether Jordanian bloggers have an impact on politics in Jordan - and I always say probably not. But let’s see if we, as customers and as citizens, can use blogs and social media to impact the private sector.

--Black Iris

What's all the uproar about? It's about the lifeblood of any blogosphere: Internet access. Nas is blogging about Orange Jordan, his service provider, which he feels is the worst offender. I'm responding to his suggestion, however, for Jordanian bloggers to broadcast their bad experiences with all of Jordan's service providers, to give an example of my own.

My provider is Wi-Tribe, apparently a rather recent addition to the fray, with wireless service in Sweifieh and Abdoun. Initially, I was very pleased with my service. We got a 2GB connection at what seemed like a reasonable price once split between myself and 2 roommates, and were generally happy with the speed and quality of the connection. On the one occasion that we exceeded our 13GB/month download quota, a phone call to customer service got our quota reset for the month at no additional cost. My only complaint at the time was that, although I had "pressed 1 for English," the customer service rep answered all my questions (asked in English) in Arabic. Thankfully, my Arabic's pretty good.

So, when I went to pay my bill a few months back and was told that if I signed a 1-year contract, I could pay 33% less for 50% more bandwidth, I readily agreed! But just like Nas on his Orange service, over the past month or more, we have averaged about 20% of the promised connection capacity.

Not only that, but there's been a significant fall-off in customer service. My roommate called to find out why the connection was so slow, and was told that they could only speak to me about our Internet connection. So I went yesterday at 4:30pm to pay our bill, get my roommate added to the account, and complain about our service, but the office wasn't open. Okay, I thought, it is Ramadan, and our company closes down at 3:00 (except for us teachers), so I'll just have to come back in the morning. When I arrived at quarter past 9 this morning, however, the office was also closed. And, typically for Jordan, no indication anywhere in sight of their hours, in Ramadan or otherwise.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Born In 1991

I don't know why (perhaps I'm channeling Alcarwen and Nicole!), but I paused last night to think about the character of this month's college freshmen. The details rather astonished me.

This year's US college freshmen were mostly born in 1991. This means that:
  • They don't remember Pres. Bush the Elder.
  • The First Gulf War was over before they could crawl.
  • Osama Bin Laden has been their nation's #1 threat for their whole lives. (Communists? That's SO last century!)
  • They're more used to computers than pen and paper.
  • They've never known life without Internet.
  • Not only that, they've never known life without Instant Messaging, and Skype's been around "for, like, forever!" (i.e. since they started high school).
  • Say "Clinton" and they think "Hilary."
  • They don't remember Monica Lewinski.
  • They Google and YouTube as easily as they breathe.
  • They probably don't remember the controversial Bush-Gore election fiasco, since they were mostly only 9 years old, in the 4th grade.
  • They were 10 years old, starting the 5th Grade, when 9/11 "changed everything."
  • They probably never wrote a research paper without access to Wikipedia.
  • They were 11 years old, in the 6th Grade, when No Child Left Behind was signed into law.
  • The Occupation of Iraq has been going on for a third of their lives, and Saddam Hussein was the biggest boogie man of their Middle School years.
  • They were 14 years old, high school Freshmen, when Hurricane Katrina devastated New Orleans.
Just food for thought. Can you think of others?

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Remember Me?

Amman, Jordan

Sometimes you can't predict the people who will remember and recognize you.

I needed a note from the college's doctor to go home early, and I knew the clinic was on Level B1, but I didn't know where, so I asked a security guard. She said, "Are you Maryah?"
"Yes," I said. Since my Peace Corps days, I've become accustomed to being the White Elephant, the person everyone recognizes in a crowd of locals.
"Don't you remember me?"
I get this a lot, too, and while I'm good at recognizing familiar faces, I'm very bad at figuring out why they're familiar. "You look familiar...."
"I'm Kawthar!" she says. "From Mshairfeh."
I take another look, and now I can see it. "Kawthar? How are you? What's new?" Four years ago, she was one of my students in the 10th grade at the girls' school in Mshairfeh where I taught as a Peace Corps Volunteer. "Do you come here every day from Mshairfeh?"
"Ali works here, and I come with him." Clearly I'm supposed to know who Ali is, too, so I smile and nod as if I understand, and change the subject a little. "There are two girls from Bleela [the village down the hill from Mshairfeh] who work at the college and come every morning, too!" She doesn't know them off hand, but maybe she'll figure it out and they can share the carpool burden that much more.
Ultimately, Kawthar can't help me find the clinic, and I really need it, so we part ways, but now I'll be sure to say hello when I can.

It's not a surprise that Ghadeer, Alia, Aaliya and Aiat remember me, or Amal whom I visited to congratulate on her Tawjihi results, or even the girl from my 8th grade class I encountered on the bus the other day. It's not surprising that Hadeel, Ziad, Khaled, FaraH and other little kids from my neighborhood remember me. But if you were to ask me which of my students was most likely to pick me out of a crowd in Amman and introduce herself, it wouldn't be Kawthar!
My 8th graders, May 2005

You see, the Jordanian 10th grade classroom is a very polarized place. By this time in their school careers, students like Alaa and Senabel knew that they would likely pass the Tawjihi and go on to university, and they were a joy to teach, really motivated and diligent. The other half of the class, including poor Kawthar, knew they would fail the Tawjihi, and that their only option in life was going to be to get married and have babies. They weren't going to get the pick of the litter in husbands, either! These girls came to school only because they could spend those hours with their friends instead of scrubbing floors, changing diapers and cooking for their mothers at home. Consequently, they were much more interested in socializing than learning, making them a classroom management nightmare.

It was my first year of teaching, and as a product of the American self-esteem culture, I guess I figured they just hadn't been given much of a chance to see themselves as learners. I had seen how other teachers treated this class, only letting Alaa, Senabel and a few other "smart" girls answer questions, not caring whether the rest of the class was keeping up or not. I used to try to include Kawthar and other troublemakers in classroom exercises. In retrospect, perhaps they thought I was trying to embarrass them, setting them up for ridicule, or trying to make a point about how "stupid" they were. In any case, it never went well, and it didn't help classroom discipline.

I do remember quite clearly how the headmistress lined Kawthar and other 10th graders up in front of the whole school at morning assembly one morning, and had each of them publicly paddled for failing to behave in my classroom. I was appalled, needless to say, and when I walked into their English class a little later, I found those girls, Kawthar chief among them, in furious, mortified tears. They berated me for taking a private matter of classroom discipline in front of the whole school. I'm not sure they believed me when I said that I had not uttered a word to the headmistress about their behavior in weeks (frankly, I'd given up thinking any such thing would make the least bit of difference), but that clearly one of their classmates had decided that the issue of their failure to respect their teacher had to be taken further up the chain of command. (I'm pretty sure it was the headmistress's daughter who tattled.) Ultimately, as I could have easily predicted, this public humiliation did nothing to improve the classroom environment.

Given my history with Kawthar, I would fully expect her to, at best, not admit she knew me, or at worst, to deliberately avoid me. I'm pretty sure I would in her shoes. But maybe, when it came right down to it, I really did make a positive impression on her and some of the other girls I felt were beyond my reach. I hope that's true. It seemed pretty hopeless, as a Peace Corps Volunteer, to make much of any effect on our students' English language within the constraints of the Ministry of Education's curricular requirements. We tried to focus on living as examples of strong, independent, ethical men and women giving back to communities in need. We tried to fan every spark of learning we spotted. I used to tell myself that if I couldn't get every student to pass their English exams, I could at least do my best to convince even the students who struggled the most that they could at least learn something. I hoped that maybe they would pass this on to their own children, and stop the cycle of "Don't ask those students. They're stupid. They can't be taught."

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

My 15 Minutes Remain Elusive

I finally found the YouTube broadcast of the panel that Queen Noor of Jordan participated in at last year's ServiceNation Summit.

I was sitting in my 2nd grade classroom at the Modern American School, having just sent my students off to gym class, when my phone rang. I put down the math homework I was grading, and picked up the phone, pleased by the serendipity of its timing. It wasn't a number I recognized, but I answered anyway.

"Is this Maryah? My name is Barbara, and I'm the Chief of Staff for Queen Noor." I was glad I was sitting down. "Her Majesty is participating in a panel in New York City next week, and someone recommended you as a Peace Corps Volunteer who loved Jordan enough to come back again. I wondered if I could get some stories from you about the importance of Peace Corps, and international service."

Of course, there are few things I love more than talking about my travels abroad, and especially about Peace Corps. I told her many of my favorite stories, including the story of the Jebel Bani Hamida bus station, which she thought would be too controversial for her purposes. Most importantly, I talked to her about Peace Corps' Third Goal, to bring knowledge of my host culture back to America. For the first time, I explained, I had come home from somewhere that people really cared about. Even the most unexpected people, housewives who'd never been 100 miles from home and never seemed interested in international affairs, had a thousand questions about Arabs, Muslims, Islam, women in the Middle East, public opinion of America in the Muslim world, the education system in Jordan, etc. And unlike the few questions I would get about the places I've lived in Europe, when it came to Jordan, people were very conscious that they really had no idea what the answers to their questions would be. People really listened to what I had to say.

Due to computer problems, I've not seen more than two thirds of the video myself, and I haven't yet heard Her Majesty mention anything that might have come from me. Nevertheless, what she and others have to say about public service, international service, and its importance to international relations are worth hearing.